This is the best thing I’ve made in weeks, the perfect dinner to make your sleepy appetite prick up its ears in the dog days of summer. It’s a Japanese dish that Koreans adopted after the Occupation, so you can make either version or mash them up, as I did: I started with this recipe from Namiko Chen and this one from Maangchi. I had it with a French 85, which is just a French 75 with a splash of absinthe. Perfect Friday night summer dinner on the deck.
Cold soba noodles with dipping sauce
The Rookery 