Vegas gets a bad rap, and deservedly so: it sprawls out in every direction like it’s scrambling for dollars at a strip club, oblivious to the needs of the environment and the wellbeing of the people who live there—heck, even threatening the livelihoods of ranchers hundreds of miles away in its endless thirst for growth and profit. But still people do live in Vegas, and they’ve found ingenious ways to make a good life in the interstices of the sprawl. And, the desert landscape around Vegas is still stunningly beautiful, with hidden springs and petroglyphs and bighorn sheep clip-clopping along the ridges. So, if you find yourself stuck in Vegas for a couple of days on a work trip or because your car broke down in the Mojave, I’ve got you covered.
A note on lodging and transportation: It depends on why you’re going to Vegas. I go for two reasons: hockey and rock-climbing. If I’m going for hockey (or a concert or show), I like to stay walking-distance to the strip but not on it: the Signature at MGM Grand condos fit the bill nicely here. If I’m climbing, I either camp at Red Rock Canyon or I Airbnb a condo in West Las Vegas. Either way, you’re gonna need a rental car, or be prepared for some long and expensive Lyft rides. At the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, Vegas is not designed for walking, and it sprawls so badly that it would take you hours to get anywhere on the bus. Under no circumstances should you drive your car on the Strip. You can literally walk faster.
Friday evening: My first stop is always Lotus of Siam, one of the best Thai restaurants in the country. Get reservations ahead of time. But of course there are literally thousands of other great restaurants in Vegas: Eater has a good guide. Before or after dinner, I like to hit up the Pinball Hall of Fame as it’s not far away in East Vegas; 80s arcade games and a really stunning collection of vintage pinball machines are a great way to work off the Roast Duck curry….
Saturday: If you’re going to a show or game tonight, I think it’s nice to mix up the vibes a bit, so I’d recommend an early hike in Red Rock Canyon followed by brunch at Babystacks. If you need coffee before you head out, try Sambalatte. If you’d rather check out the petroglyphs at Valley of Fire State Park, you can hit up PublicUs on the way out or back (if you’re anything like me, you’ll go there today *and* tomorrow—it’s a great Chinese-tea-house-style coffee house with a nice selection of drinks, pastries, and brunch dishes).
If you want to poke around a bit before heading to dinner and your show, I’d recommend the vintage shops in Old (North) Las Vegas around the Container Park, or, if you want to beat the traffic and secure a parking spot near your venue, you can visit Bauman Rare Books in the Venetian and get a gelato after (ride a gondola down the fake canal at your own risk….). For dinner, I haven’t eaten in many places on the strip, but I can recommend Nobu; Mon Ami Gabi at the Paris serves up surprisingly good French bistro fare as well. I usually eat in West Vegas (which is where I’m going to send you after your show anyway), and while there are SO many good places there, I recently had a great meal at a Senegalese/Gambian restaurant called Calabash.
After your show you’re not going to be ready to go to bed yet, and you might be hungry again. If you just want a drink, the Chandelier in the Cosmpolitan has great views and cocktails (Ghost Donkey is fun as well). But I usually go for KBQ (Korean Barbecue): if you can get there before 10:30, my favorite spot is 8 OZ. But Honey Pig is serviceable and open 24 hours.
Sunday: You had a big night last night, so let’s not be over-ambitious. Start out with coffee at PublicUs, or if you did that yesterday and want something new, you can’t beat a Cronut from Dominique Ansel at Caesar’s Palace. When you’re ready, move on to the garden brunch at the Four Seasons. If you can, get in to see Akhob at the Louis Vuitton flagship in the Aria: it’s a James Turrell light installation on the top floor, and you can get an appointment by calling the store and asking to speak to the curator—best to do that in advance and just work your weekends plans around it, or get on their cancellation list, which is what I did last time. It’s well worth the effort, and you’ll head for McCarran International Airport in the perfect, Zen frame of mind to deal with the slot machines, bachelorette parties, and Nacho cheese Doritos scattered underfoot. Viva Las Vegas.
The Rookery 